[Conference] Reinventing sustainable perfume
2023/01/17
Perfume is going through a period of experimentation, undoubtedly the most intense in its history, on three of its structuring aspects:
- Formulation: with the development – gradual over several decades – of ‘niche perfumes’, which reconnects with the tradition of high-end perfumes: quality of ingredients, clear-cut olfactory biases, non-gendered perfumes, functional fragrances, etc.
- Form: the ultra-dominant perfume form is [an alcohol-based juice in a glass bottle with a spray nozzle]. Although very effective, the omnipresence of this paradigm contributes to a form of weariness among consumers with regards to the standardisation of perfumes. As such, brands are increasingly exploring new forms, such as gels, or updating abandoned forms, such as concretes, to renew and enhance the user experience.
- Gestures, which also explores new ways of applying perfume and new associated packaging formats – often inspired by cosmetics – more intimate, nomadic, and fun, which appeal to new generations of users who do not want to be bound by traditional codes and who are eager for new experiences.
Perfume, that ethereal, almost immaterial elixir, is, however, not exempt from environmental impact. In fact, it is actually one of the products for which the [packaging weight] / [packaged product weight] ratio is the highest. Our goal is to help players optimise the impact of their packaging while preserving its desirability.
Pascale BROUSSE Director, TREND SOURCING
Pascale Brousse
An example of the convergence of these three aspects is found in our more varied, dynamic, nomadic lifestyles… which necessarily involves a change in uses. You cannot touch up your perfume on the bus using a spray, you need a more targeted and more discrete method of application, handier too: for example a pen that diffuses gel.
This is one of the main motivations of brands: develop formats and gestures that better support variety and changing lifestyles and our quest for personalisation.
What role for sustainable development?
Gérald Martines
Sustainable development is inseparable from any current creative process. Sustainable development is no longer a nice-to-have but a strong requirement that deeply structures the approach. No business today can afford to be perceived as participating in a form of irresponsible wastage of scarce resources, whether for ingredients or packaging.
These considerations can guide the concept of a perfume line very early on: for example, a solid form can be chosen for high-concentration less fragile formulae and packaging that is easier to recycle and more economical in terms of transport and storage can also be chosen.
Our new study aims to establish a cross-cutting assessment of these fundamental trends, in order to allow brands to gain in relevance and to meet the strong expectations of consumers.
Article based on the Reinventing sustainable perfume conference with Pascale BROUSSE, Director – TREND SOURCING, Gérald Martines ,Founder & president – IN-SIGNES
LUXE PACK Show – Edition Spéciale 2022 – PARIS.